Fontina Mac with Sherry-Burnished Crust

Instructions

1. 1

   Preheat your oven to 400°F with the broiler ready to engage afterward. Bring a small saucepan of heavily salted water to a rolling boil — it should taste like the sea. Cook the rigatoni for 2 minutes less than the package's al dente time (you want it firm enough to hold a second cook). Reserve 3 tablespoons of the starchy pasta water before draining. Drain and toss the pasta with a tiny drizzle of butter to prevent clumping.

2. 2

   While the pasta cooks, make the brown-butter panko crust: melt 1/2 tablespoon of the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Watch it carefully — it will foam, then the foam will subside, and you'll start smelling a warm, toasted-hazelnut aroma and see golden specks forming on the pan bottom, about 2–3 minutes. Add the panko immediately and toss to coat. Toast, stirring constantly, until the crumbs are deep amber and smell nutty, about 2 minutes more. Stir in the Parmigiano-Reggiano and thyme, season with a small pinch of salt, and spread onto a plate to cool. They should shatter between your fingers when cooled — if they feel soft, toast 30 more seconds.

3. 3

   For the béchamel base: wipe the skillet clean and melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter over medium-low heat until it just foams. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking continuously, until the roux smells faintly biscuity and turns very pale gold, about 90 seconds — don't let it brown. Add the white wine and whisk hard as it sizzles and steams; it will seize briefly, then smooth out in about 20 seconds.

4. 4

   Slowly pour in the whole milk in a thin stream, whisking the entire time to prevent lumps. Raise the heat to medium and continue whisking until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and a line drawn through it holds clean, about 3–4 minutes. Reduce heat to the lowest setting.

5. 5

   Whisk in the sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, miso paste (if using), and nutmeg. The sauce will smell sharp for a moment — that's the vinegar waking up the fat — then it will settle into a savory, rounded depth. Whisk in the fontina a small handful at a time, waiting for each addition to fully melt and disappear before adding the next. The sauce should be glossy and pull away from the whisk in thick ribbons. If it feels too stiff, add a tablespoon of the reserved pasta water.

6. 6

   Remove the pan from heat entirely and let the sauce cool for 60 seconds — this is critical. In a small bowl, whisk the egg with the ricotta until smooth. Slowly drizzle 2 tablespoons of the warm sauce into the egg-ricotta mixture while whisking constantly (tempering — you're raising the egg's temperature gradually so it doesn't scramble). Then pour the tempered mixture back into the sauce and whisk to combine. Season with the remaining salt and black pepper; the sauce should taste boldly savory with a clean, bright finish from the sherry.

7. 7

   Add the drained rigatoni to the sauce and fold gently until every tube is coated inside and out. Transfer to a small oven-safe gratin dish or individual cast-iron skillet (about 6–7 inches). The pasta should be nearly submerged in sauce — pool it in the center slightly. Scatter the brown-butter panko crust evenly over the top in an even layer.

8. 8

   Bake at 400°F for 12–14 minutes, until the sides bubble actively and you can hear a faint sizzle when you tilt the dish. Then switch the oven to broil on high and move the dish to the top rack. Broil for 2–3 minutes, watching without walking away — the crust should go from golden to deeply burnished and crackling, with just a few dark edges. The center should still jiggle slightly like a set custard when you gently shake the dish.

9. 9

   Rest for 3 minutes out of the oven — this lets the sauce tighten from molten to creamy-pullable. Finish with a pinch of flaky sea salt crushed between your fingers. Serve immediately in the dish; the crust shatters on the first spoonful and the filling underneath should be thick, glossy, and thread between the tines of your fork.